Sustainable Living Tips by Lee Leffler

By Lee Leffler

Printed in the August 2009 issue of the Iowa Source. 

When I originally wrote “Savoring Sushi” in the Iowa Source 11 years ago, three restaurants offered a limited selection of sushi, all similar. Since then, the Ten-Ten has closed and Bonnie’s China Deli is now the Second Street Cafe with just one style: ginger sushi. The Noodle House’s two sushi selections have been staples in Fairfield for the last 13 years: imitation crab sushi and avocado sushi wrapped in toasted green nori (seaweed).

Sushi Maker Aron Zaragoza 

In June, The Noodle House debuted their new offerings, Simple Sushi: 16 types of Maki sushi and three Nigiri sushi selections.

On a recent visit to the Noodle House, a hush fell over the table as Noodle House cook Aron Zaragoza lowered a tray containing a white rice roll (about the size of a paper towel tube, but thicker) dotted with orange roe, smothered in stripes of spicy mayo, topped with a mountain range of crab salad. I pulled out one of the eight generous two-bite pieces to find an internal strip of green nori and a stuffing of spicy cooked Ahi tuna (shipped fresh from the West Coast), thick deep-fried tempura shrimp the size of a short cigar, white cream cheese, green asparagus, shredded carrots and zesty green onions.

“Appearance is everything,” said Zaragoza. “It starts with having the right atmosphere to bring people in. Then the food has to look amazing. Try it,” encouraged the sushi chef.

My spouse, David, awkwardly tried to spread his chopsticks wide enough to grasp a whole piece, then settled for stabbing it and dipping it in soy sauce. I shyly picked at some crab salad off the top (creamy and delicious), then bit into the jumbo sushi.

Accustomed to an insipid British diet, my mouth was overwhelmed by the incredible mixture of contrasting flavors. I smiled. The second-best part was the textures: starchy sticky rice, mushy tuna and carrots, and lingering pearls of roe that popped when bitten. “Wow, incredible,” mumbled David, who quickly stabbed another piece. The best part: we split the roll, so I got to repeat the experience three more times.

The Noodle House Cali Roll 

Then, over the course of several meals, out came the Crab Cali sushi, the Tempura Shrimp sushi, and more, like the Organic Tempura Tofu Roll. All the sushi is made on the spot, and you can exclude ingredients if you want or ask for less spice.

The majority of the sushi selections are the large 8-piece Maki rolls. The basic Maki Sushi rolls run from $5 for a vegetarian Avocado Cream Cheese Roll to $7.95 for the Spicy Tuna Roll (Ahi Tuna, green onions, cream cheese, cucumber). The more elaborate, thicker Maki Specialty rolls run from $9.95 for a Tiger Roll, to $11.95 for the grand Futo Maki Roll (spicy salmon, tempura shrimp, carrot, asparagus, eel, avocado, cream cheese). If a roll of these big boys does not fill you right up, order a side of cooked veggies.

There are three selections of smaller 2-piece Nigiri sushi portions, which are plain enough for the most finicky eaters: sticky rice with egg, shrimp or crab for $2-$3.

“We have regulars who come for the sushi every day,” said Zaragoza.

Have you seen a baby at the Noodle House? Aron Zaragoza is baby Dominic’s father. Dominic’s mom, Geena Xayavong, also makes the sushi. They hope to get a license to prepare raw fish sushi in the future, and maybe open their own place in Fairfield.

“All the fish is cooked at this time. Of course, everything is fresh,” said Zaragoza. “Nothing is from a can or bottle. The vegetables are crisp. People can taste the difference.”

 The Noodle House is located at 59 North Court Street in Fairfield.

Lee Leffler is TheNewsletterGal.com and writes is a blog on Sustainable Living at www.leeleffler.com.

From the August 2009 issue of the Iowa Source.